Asylum Needlework: Collarette

Eric Fong LG at the Soho Open 2025.

Congratulations to Eric Fong LG for being selected to exhibit in the Soho Open last month.

“Soho Housing Association, in partnership with Parker Harris, presents the inaugural Soho Open, a new exhibition opportunity for artists, makers, designers, and creatives based in the UK.

With no set theme, the selection panel, featuring critic and curator Paul Carey-Kent, artists Frances Richardson and Shanti Panchal, chair of the Holborne Museum Mervyn Metcalf and gallery director Monika Bobinska, have chosen 105 outstanding works by 97 artists for the exhibition at Great Pulteney Street Gallery.”

Eric Fong on the project:

“Asylum Needlework is inspired by my research into the clothing of female pauper patients in Victorian asylums.

Upon admission to the asylum, patients were issued dresses that were of a standard style and material. They were often not substantially different to ordinary working-class clothing, although perhaps rather outdated.

For many, the new attire was warmer, cleaner and of better quality than their own. However, for some, this type of ‘uniform’ was seen as an imposition, and a source of discontent and humiliation.

Much of the clothing in the asylums was made in-house by the patients. It was partly to provide an occupation that was considered by doctors and managers a significant element of ‘moral therapy’. It also helped the asylums to reduce the operational cost, as it was cheaper than buying goods from external sources. The clothing was standardised because it was easier to manage a limited range of patterns.

Inspired by my findings, I imagined what the patients might have made/mended/worn by producing a series of cyanotypes of recreated and found Victorian needlework.”

Read more here.

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